Home Custom Computers Password Depot DoC's Homepage Contact Gord Class Photos Service Request Suggestions Mega Search Site Map

Aperture Control

Introduction Camera Controls Image Quality/Size Aperture Control Exposure Modes Conveying Motion Fine Tune/Metering Flash Photography E-mailing Photos Further Reading

 

Up
Courses
Free Software
Glossary Of Terms
Private Tutoring
Computer File Types
Games Room
Support Forum
LP's to CD's

Gord's new Fast & Free Computer Helpdesk Student Support Forum

Gord's Hot Computer Service Offer!
Check out Gord's Fantastic In-Home Computer Tune-Up Special

Gord's FAST & FREE Online Computer Tech Support Helpdesk - AskGordRoutley.com!

>> Computer Repairs & Computer Tune-Ups
>> New Custom-Built Computer Systems
>> Used Computer Systems
>> Private Tutoring
>> Virus Removal
>> SpyWare Removal
>> Data Recovery

Rid Yourself Of Spammers NOW!!


The Aperture Controls Light and Depth of Field

The aperture diaphragm, a ring of overlapping leaves within the camera lens, adjusts the size of the opening in the lens through which light passes to the image sensor. As it changes size, it affects both the exposure of the image and the depth of field in which everything is sharp.

Aperture and exposure

The aperture can be opened up to let in more light or closed (stopped down) to let in less. Like the shutter speed, the aperture is used to control exposure. The larger the aperture opening, the more light reaches the image sensor in a given period of time. The more light, the lighter the image.

The Way It Was: Early Apertures

A variety of designs in the past century and a half have enabled photographers to change the size of the lens opening. A form of the iris diaphragm, used in today's cameras, was used as early as the 1820s by Joseph Nicephore Niepce, one of the inventors of photography. Waterhouse stops, used in the 1850s were a series of blackened metal plates with holes of different sizes cut in them. To change apertures the photographer chose the appropriate one and slid it into a slot in the lens barrel. With wheel stops, different size apertures were cut into a revolving plate. The photographer changed the size of the aperture by rotating the plate to align the desired opening with the lens.

Aperture and depth-of-field

Like shutter speed, aperture also affects the sharpness of your picture, but in a different way. Changing the aperture changes the depth of field; the depth in a scene from foreground to background that will be sharp in a photograph. The smaller the aperture you use, the greater the area of a scene that will be sharp. For some pictures-for example, a landscape-you may want a smaller aperture for maximum depth of field so that everything from near foreground to distant background is sharp. But perhaps in a portrait you will want a larger aperture to decrease the depth of field so that your subject's face is sharp but the background is soft and out of focus.

mantisdof.jpg (10845 bytes)

A shallow depth of field can make part of an image stand out sharply against a softer background. This emphasizes the sharpest part of the image.

rio.jpg (34736 bytes)

Great depth of field keeps everything sharp from the foreground to the background.

Understanding aperture settings

Aperture settings are called f-stops and indicate the size of the aperture opening inside the lens. Each f-stop lets in half as much light as the next larger opening and twice as much light as the next smaller opening. From the largest possible opening to increasingly smaller ones, the f-stops have traditionally been f/1, f/1.4, f/2, f/2.8, f/4, f/5.6, f/8, f/11, f/16, f/22, f/32, f/45. No lens has the full range of settings; for example, the standard lens on a digital camera will range from about f/2 to about f/16. Notice that as the f-stop number gets larger (f/8 to f/11, for example), the aperture size gets smaller. This may be easier to remember if you think of the f-number as a fraction: 1/11 is less than 1/8, just as the size of the f/11 lens opening is smaller that the size of the f/8 opening.

How wide you can open the aperture, referred to as its "speed," depends on the lens' maximum aperture (its widest opening). The term "fast lens" usually applies to lenses that can be opened to a wide maximum aperture for the focal length. For example, a lens with a maximum aperture of f/2.6 opens wider, and is faster, than a lens with a maximum aperture of f/4. Faster lenses are better when photographing in dim light or photographing fast moving subjects. With zoom lenses the maximum aperture changes as you zoom the lens. It will be larger when zoomed out to a wide angle, and smaller when zoomed in to enlarge a subject.

How To: Selecting an Aperture

Look in your camera manual for a section on aperture preferred or aperture priority, or apertures.

Using Shutter Speed and Aperture Together

Both shutter speed and aperture affect the exposure, the total amount of light reaching the image sensor, and so control a picture's lightness or darkness. The shutter speed controls the length of time the image sensor is exposed to light and the aperture controls the brightness of that light. You, or the camera's autoexposure system, can pair a fast shutter speed (to let in light for a short time) with a wide aperture (to let in bright light) or a slow shutter speed (long time) with a small aperture (dim light). Speaking of exposure only, it doesn't make any difference which of the combinations is used. But in other ways, it does make a difference, and it is just this difference that gives you some creative opportunities. You're always balancing camera or subject movement against depth of field. This is because a change in one causes a change in the other. Let's see why.

Each setting is 1 "stop" from the next and lets in half or twice the light of the next setting. A shutter speed of 1/60 sec. lets in half the light that 1/30 sec. does, and twice the light of 1/125 sec. An aperture of f/8 lets in half the light that f/5.6 does, and twice the light of f/11. If you make the shutter speed 1 stop slower (letting in 1 stop more light), and an aperture 1 stop smaller (letting in 1 stop less light), the exposure doesn't change. However, you increase the depth of field slightly and also the possibility of blur.

For general shooting you need a medium shutter speed (1/60 sec. or faster) and a medium aperture (f/5.6 or smaller). Slower shutter speeds will show up on the image as overall blur unless you support the camera, perhaps with a tripod.

  • For fast-moving subjects you need a fast shutter speed (although the focal length of the lens you are using, the closeness of the subject, and the direction it's moving also affect motion).
  • For maximum depth of field, with the entire scene sharp from near to far, you need a small aperture (although the focal length of the lens and the distance to the subject also affects depth of field).

An Analogy

One way to think of shutter speeds and apertures is as faucets. You can fill (expose) a bucket with a small faucet opening (aperture) over a long time (shutter speed), or a large faucet opening in a shorter period. No matter which combination you choose, the bucket can be filled the same amount.

blueangels.jpg (23605 bytes)

Photographing these fast-moving Blue Angels from the deck of a moving boat took a fast shutter speed to prevent blur caused by subject or camera movement. Great depth of field was also needed to keep the boats in the foreground and background sharp.

Back
Next

Search Query

Want Windows XP AND Vista on your new computer?

Gord's Computer Blog

Gord's Business Website

Want A Super Computer Custom-Built  By Gord? Click Here!!

$AVE your travel bucks - Visit DoC's 1SecureTravel.com

DoC's 1SecureDomains.com - Domain Registration only $25/year!

Let DoC Host Your Website from $5.99/month!

Let DoC Submit Your Website to 66+ Search Engines Fast!


Back Home Up Next

Google

Search

Web

  www.eldercomps.com

www.pcmedixwebs.com

www.docsdownloads.com


Copyright © 2002-2008 pcMedix Web Solutions Group.  All rights reserved
Updated: October 30, 2008 04:57 PM