Understanding Lenses
Many digital cameras come with zoom lenses so you can zoom in or out to
meet different photographic opportunities. Zoom in on a subject and you can
capture distant action at sporting events or in the field. Zoom out and you
can capture a wide-angle view of a large group, a roomy interior, or of an
expansive landscape. The ability to change your angle of view as you frame
your image is one of your most powerful creative controls.
Modern camera lenses are designed on computers, ground to critical
tolerances, coated with chemicals to improve light transmission, and then
mounted in precision barrels and mounts. These lenses have excellent speed
and sharpness, much more so than lenses of just a few years ago. The primary
function of a lens is to gather light reflecting from a scene and focus that
light as sharply as possible onto the image sensor in the camera. A
high-quality lens does this very well, but to get the most out of what it
has to offer you should know a few of its characteristics and how they
affect your images.
Although your camera is equipped only with a zoom lens, in this chapter
we look at the effects it has when used as a normal, wide-angle, and
telephoto lens. This approach gives you the background you need to use the
lens effectively and creatively.
Surprisingly, lenses are not actually needed to take a picture. You can
make a camera out of a shoebox with a small hole in one end. Known as a
pinhole camera, this primitive device can actually focus an image and record
it on film. To make a photograph, the box is loaded in the dark with a
light-sensitive film or paper and the pinhole is covered with opaque tape.
Peeling the tape back (much like a shutter) to uncover the pinhole (much
like a lens aperture) begins the exposure, recovering the pinhole ends it.
The exposed film or paper can be removed in a darkroom and the image
developed.
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In a pinhole
camera, the light waves from the object converge on the pinhole and
focus the image upside down on the film. |
Light is bent when it passes between substances having different
densities. You can see this if you look at an object that is both in and out
of water; for example a spoon in a glass half full of water looks bent at
the point where it enters the water. Obviously, the spoon isn’t bent; the
light reflecting from the spoon is, as it passes from the dense water to the
less dense air. The same effect occurs when light passes from the air
through a piece of glass. If the glass is curved correctly, as it is in a
camera lens, it can bend the light in such a way that an image of the scene
in front of the lens is focused behind it.
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Refraction bends
light when it passes between substances of different densities. |
The focal length of any lens is the distance between the optical centre
of the lens and the point at which it focuses an image. When you use a
magnifying glass to focus the light from the sun onto a piece of paper, the
area illuminated by the beam will become larger or smaller as you change the
distance between the magnifying glass and paper. At the point where the
bright circle of light is smallest (and where it might set the paper on
fire), the simple lens that constitutes the magnifying glass is in focus.
The distance between the magnifying glass and the paper is the lens’ focal
length.
Lens focal lengths are based on the physical characteristics of the lens
so they are absolute values. However, a given focal length lens may be a
wide angle lens on one camera and a telephoto lens on another. This is
because descriptions such as "wide-angle" or "normal" depend on the size of
the film or image sensor being used. As these get smaller, a given focal
length lens magnifies more. There are currently a number of differently
sized image sensors used in digital cameras. For that reason, different
focal lengths are needed to give the same image coverage on different
cameras. Because of the confusion this causes, most digital camera companies
give the actual focal length of their lenses and then an equivalent focal
length were the lenses to be adapted to a 35mm camera. For example, a camera
may list its lens as 7.5mm (equivalent to 50mm on 35mm camera). Because
digital equivalents vary widely, we often use the more familiar 35mm focal
lengths in this book.
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In the upper
left corner are shown some image sensor sizes. The larger rectangle is
the size of a frame of 35mm film. |
A zoom lens lets you choose any focal length within the range the lens is
designed for. When you change focal lengths by zooming the lens, two
important effects are immediately obvious in the lens’ angle of view and its
magnifying power.
Angle of view refers to how much of a scene the lens covers. Zoomed out,
you have a wide-angle of view that captures a wide expanse of a scene. As
you zoom in, the field of view narrows and you can isolate small portions of
the scene without moving closer to the subject.
Magnification is related to the lens’ angle of view. Since zooming out
includes a wide sweep of the scene, all of the objects in the scene are
reduced to fit into the image. Zooming in gives a much narrower angle of
view, so objects in a scene appear larger.
Zoom lenses on digital cameras work much like those on camcorders. There
are two buttons or a movable lever. Pressing one zooms in, increasing the
focal length and narrowing the angle of view. Pressing the other zooms out,
decreasing the focal length and widening the angle of view.
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One of the best
things about zoom lenses is the speed with which you can react to photo
opportunities. Here, the key action in the scene on the left is lost in
the large frame. By zooming in, this key action was isolated (right). |
How To: Zooming the Lens
To use a zoom lens you press a lever or zoom-out button to widen the
angle of view and a lever or zoom-in button to enlarge subjects. The
viewfinder zooms along with the optical zoom lens although it doesn’t
always show the entire picture area. |
A "normal lens" for a 35mm camera usually refers to a lens with a 50mm
focal length. On a digital camera, an equivalent lens will have a much
smaller focal length because image sensors are much smaller than 35 mm film.
When you zoom your lens and look at the image on the LCD monitor, the scene
looks about the same as it does to the unaided eye. Looking at the LCD
monitor with the lens zoomed all the way out makes everything appear closer
than it actually is. With it zoomed out to a wide-angle, everything looks
farther away.
A normal-focal-length (50mm) lens isn’t necessarily the one
photographer's normally to use. Many photographers prefer the wider angle of
view and greater depth of field provided by a slightly shorter focal length.
Changing Apertures
A lens’ maximum aperture is determined by dividing the actual
diameter of the aperture opening into the focal length of the lens.
That’s why the aperture might change from f/2.6 when zoomed out to f/4
when zoomed all the way in on a subject. |
See for Yourself
A lens is called normal because it captures a scene just as the human
eye does. This seems to violate common sense, because the eye’s angle of
view is much wider than any normal lens. However, you can demonstrate
for yourself why a specific focal length is normal for your camera. If
you are a passenger in a car, try zooming the lens as you watch the
traffic ahead on the LCD monitor. The longer focal lengths make distant
cars appear right on top of you; in reaction you might even try to put
on your brakes and then discover the cars are nowhere near as close as
you thought. With shorter focal lengths, cars look far ahead, even when
relatively close. A normal focal-length makes the cars appear in the
same distance relationship as you perceive them ordinarily.
Another demonstration is to take two photographs of greatly different
size and tape them to a wall. Look at them one at a time on the LCD
monitor with the lens zoomed to a normal focal-length a little above
it’s widest angle of 28mm. Move close enough so each fills the LCD
monitor. You’ll discover you are at the correct distance for viewing the
prints. With a longer focal-length you would feel too far away, and with
a shorter one too close. |
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It’s hard to
look at a photo and tell what focal-length lens was used to take it.
However, objects in an image taken with a normal lens look normal in
their spatial relationships. |
Zooming out gives you a wide-angle of view that lets you capture a wide
expanse of a scene. This wide angle of view is ideal for use in tight
spaces, such as when photographing landscapes and in small rooms where you
can’t position the camera a great distance from the subject.
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If you don’t get
too close to your subjects, wide angle zoom is good for indoor portraits
where including the setting is important. |
A lens zoomed to a wide-angle also has great depth of field. This great
depth of field makes short lenses good for street or action photographs.
When out to capture quickly unfolding scenes, keep the lens zoomed out to a
wide angle so you’ll have maximum depth of field when you respond quickly to
a photo opportunity.
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Zooming out
increases depth of field and widens the angle of coverage making it
ideal for interior shots. The great depth of field also makes focusing
less critical so you can capture those fleeting moments you might
otherwise miss. |
Short lenses also let you focus very close to your subject, and the
effect this can have on the perspective in your images can be dramatic.
Objects very close to the camera loom much larger than those farther in the
background. This distortion in the apparent size of objects can deliberately
give emphasis and when carried to an extreme, give an unrealistic appearance
to a scene.
In addition to zooming your lens all of the way out for wide-angle
coverage, some cameras have wide-angle lens adapters that widen it even
more.
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Shooting down on
these two girls makes their heads look much larger than they really are
since they are much closer to the camera and its wide-angle lens. |
A lens zoomed in on a subject acts somewhat like a telescope: It
magnifies the image of your subject. This is especially useful when you
can’t get close to your subject—or don’t want to. Zooming in like this is
ideal for wildlife, portrait, and candid photography, whenever getting close
to a subject might disturb it.
When you zoom in on a subject, depth of field gets shallower so you must
focus carefully. Also, zooming in visually compresses space, making objects
in the scene appear closer together than they actually are.
The primary drawback of zooming in is that it gives you a smaller maximum
aperture. This smaller maximum aperture may require a longer shutter speed
and since a long lens magnifies movement, just as it magnifies the subject,
you may have to use a tripod instead of hand-holding the camera.
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Zooming in makes
distant objects appear compressed. Here a long lens has been used to
"compress" a street scene at the foot of the Rocky Mountains in
Colorado. |
For a telephoto view, you can zoom the lens all the way in. For even more
magnification, some cameras have optional lens converters that give you even
longer focal lengths.
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When the line-up of cement trucks (upper right) is
shot head-on with a long lens (lower left) they appear much closer
together then they really are. This is actually due to the distance from
the subject, not the focal length of the lens, but the effect is easy to
get with a long lens. |
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A long lens
makes the sun look larger in relation to foreground objects. |
Zoom lenses come in two varieties; optical and digital zooms. An
optical zoom lens actually changes the amount of the scene falling
on the image sensor. Every pixel in the image contains unique data so the
final photo is sharp and clear. A digital zoom lens uses
sleight of hand by taking a part of the normal image falling on the sensor
and then enlarging it to fill the sensor. It does this by adding new pixels
to the image using interpolation. The interpolated image doesn’t have as
many unique pixels as one taken with an optical zoom so is inferior. In
fact, you don’t even need this zoom feature because you can get exactly the
same effect just by cropping a normal image in a photo-editing program and
then enlarging it.
How To: Using Digital Tele
Look in your camera manual for a section on digital tele
or digital zoom. |
A zoom lens is an excellent portrait lens, especially for
head-and-shoulders portraits. When zoomed in you can keep your distance and
still fill the viewfinder frame with the subject. Keeping at a distance
eliminates the exaggerated perspective caused by working very close to a
subject with a shorter focal length lens. It also helps relax your subjects
if they get uneasy, as many people do, when a camera comes close.
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A long lens lets
you get portraits without crowding in on the subject. This let’s you
capture more natural expressions. |
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Using a lens
zoomed out to a wide angle and close to the subject adds some distortion
to the portrait but it still works as an image. Perhaps not as
flattering as it might be, the image is probably more interesting to
others than to the subject. |
A photograph can appear to compress space so that objects appear closer
together than you expect. Another photograph of the same scene can seem to
expand space so that objects appear farther apart than normal. These
apparent distortions in perspective—the appearance of depth in a
photograph—are often attributed to the focal length of the lens being used
but are actually caused by the distance of the lens from the subject.
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The image on the
left appears to be more "open" and spacious than the more visually
"compressed" one on the right. However, the image on the right is
actually contained in the image on the left. It just appears more
compressed because the enlarged section includes only those elements
farthest from the camera. |
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Changing
camera-to-subject distance does change perspective as shown here. As the
camera is moved closer to the foreground subject (bottom), the subject
appears to increase in size relative to the background. This changing
relationship between the size of objects in the foreground and
background creates the difference in perspective. |
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